I arrived to Padova and took a bus to my host's apartment. Julia is a Polish girl that was raised in Venice. She had much to tell me. I was jointly hosted by her roommate Valentino and her cat. A great cat. Lovely hosts. I just had one slight problem. From the moment I arrived to the train station I had (and still have) a terrible headache. My eyes burn and I have developed a funny cough. It is so cold for me in Italy this time of year, inside and outside of buildings, but I don't think it is a flu. It might be something I have picked up riding public transportation but I felt better yesterday in Venice walking around. I think maybe it is the air in Padova. I did go into the town alone on Valentine's Day to take some photos but honestly, my eyes and head hurt so much that I didn't take many. Although cold and a bit miserable I did find HEART(s).
Yesterday was my day to return to Venice without the crowd of people for carnival. I was blessed with sunshine. Once again I have the time now to make and upload a video slideshow before returning to Vicenza and my host Denis. I left my cell phone charger at his place so he gets to see me one more night. I joked with him that I missed his cooking. But it isn't a joke!!!! Tomorrow night I am not sure where I will be. I have couch requests into people in Milan and in Bologna, two different directions entirely, but I have not heard any replies. Today I feel like a real vagabond.
NOTE! In case you haven't seen it I have a separate page on the blog for my VIDEO CREATIONS. (LOOK ABOVE FOR THE TAB) I can only post a few photos within a blog post so I thought making slideshows would be a good way to share my photos.
Well this is a short post for today because my fingers are freezing. There is a heating system in this apartment but they don't turn it on. The radiators are ice cold. Julia went to Milan last night for a couchsurfing event and her roommate is asleep so I can't ask anyone to please put up the heat. I need GUANTI with the fingertips cut off so I can continue to type more... But I need to eat something anyway and get to the Italian word of the day: FERMATA = BUSTOP.
Hot food, hot food...I will reheat the pasta I made last night and that will surely help. Here is wishing for an early WARM SPRING!
And now a moment to write, edit and create some slide videos to share the incredible photos that keep appearing miraculously in my camera. There must be some ancient soul possessing my shutter finger because it amazes me what I find when I upload them to my little netbook. Whoever you are dear artist spirit don't leave me, please stay and use me. I am in delight!
It has been snowing the last two days in Vicenza therefore indoors safe and dry is where I am staying. I have been blessed with perfect timing even with the weather (knock wood) in that I have had sunny afternoons to explore. My host Denis has been a fantastic tour guide. I have seen things that I never would have seen on my own and as we went here and there even villas usually closed to the public have spontaneously opened for us to wander their grounds.
Friday afternoon I went into the old city on my own to visit several of the museums. Later in the evening guests were invited to the apartment for dinner. What a lovely evening of laughter and good food. I did some muscle testing demonstrations which got my host even more curious so last night we had another small gathering. We started earlier so that I could give a little informal class. "You have been in my house for four days and only now you are showing me this?" haaaaa Well...you have been teaching me. Now it is my turn to share what I know. Let's have fun. And it was a great deal of fun.
But backing up again... Saturday was a fantastic day. I was awoken to the shutters being raised and a loud "GOOD MORNING AMERICA! TIME TO WAKE UP. WE HAVE A ROMANTIC TOUR TODAY. YOU HAVE ONE HALF HOUR TO GET READY." That's quick. I washed my face, downed an espresso got my contact lenses in and we were off to see Romeo's Castle and its neighbor's Juliet's. What a gorgeous day for touring. The views were stunning from atop Juliet''s Castle. Although it is winter here it is still beautiful. In the spring it must be simply intoxicating.
SERENDIPITA'was the Italian word of the day = SERENDIPITY. Denis received a call on his cell phone from an old friend who extended to us an invitation for lunch. We were to go to a private home in Padova en route back to Vicenza but we were finished at the castles much earlier.
“And there upon he drew a dial from his poke and looking on it with lack-lustre eye says very wisely, 'It is ten o'clock: Thus we may see', quoth he, 'how the world wags: 'Tis but an hour ago since it was nine and after one hour more 'twill be eleven; And so from hour to hour we ripe and ripe, And then from hour to hour we rot and rot.”
(Sorry - wrong Shakespeare play but my favorite piece to recite.)
We had some spare time and were simply driving on a street in back of a wonderful villa and... the gate was open. We parked and went in, chatted with the caretaker and we were allowed to wander at will. It was so lovely. Thank you gods of chance. Once again you have opened the doors and gates to earthly heavens.
At Denis's friend's home there were more delights. I would love to post several photos of this beautiful property but there simply isn't space. I was in Joy Joy with the fellows cooking together, sharing wonderful wine, telling stories and engaging in conversation and (ha) tasting grappa. I was glad that I was not the one driving back to Vicenza. Those raisins after steeping for along time in alcohol can give you a sweet "relaxed" feeling especially after a delicious lunch. (We had sauteed dandelion greens among other flavorful delicacies.)
Later in the afternoon two other couchsurfers arrived for only one night. The young women were friends living in Ireland yet one was an Italian from the north and the other from Misiones, Argentina. It was so much fun to speak in castellano again and laugh all together. We bundled ourselves up and Denis guided us through the old city so that we could see it at night. The Basilica was breathtaking. In the morning I applied my carnival mask make up, said goodbye to the girls and headed off to Venice for the day blessed with the last day of FULL SUN.
Venice was PACKED with people. It was incredible. I had been warned that it would not be the time for taking photos of the city because there would be way too many people there. The warnings held true so although I was tempted to walk the side streets to capture scenes of the buildings and canals my wiser practical side of my brain said, "NO - there will be so many costumes and fantastic masks. Save the camera battery. Follow the crowd to Piazza San Marco and shoot!" OK! Maybe it wasn't the more practical part of my mind. Maybe it was the ancient one that has commanded my shutter finger and photographic eye. I let the crowd suck me in and we went in mass through the small side streets in procession to the square. It was stupendous. I am a great lover of costuming formerly having three sewing machines, a dress dummy and bolts and bags of fabric. I used to spend joyous hours, even days creating in the spare studio room of my house. All those things are now gone as I am a nomad muse with few things but the spirit inside me will never fade. I always thought that in a past life I lived in the Renaissance and wore garb of detail and great splendor. Or perhaps I was a designer in those days creating whimsy and beauty. All I know is that costuming makes me very, very happy and I surely was in great joy on Sunday. And yes, I ran out of camera battery just as the sun was getting low in the sky and my fingers were too cold to continue. (I lost a GUANTO. Actually I didn't lose it. I know where it is but I have yet to retrieve it from the house in Padova.)
Photographing carnival was such a treat. I decided to concentrate on THE FACES. To share the images better I have created a video slide show of my favorite shots. I have uploaded it to youtube so all can enjoy the magic of Carnavale. Feel free to share it. I have also created a video for Vicenza and Verona also uploaded to youtube to share. I hope you enjoy the images. The Verona video I am going to go back into the post I did last week and put the link there, just page down from the main blog page or access the post from the side bar to the right.
Is life good? Oh yes, even with the sleet and snow and cold. The snow shall melt and clear away. Tomorrow I move to Padova (half way between here and Venice) to stay with Julia, a couchsurfer born in Poland. Carnival will be over (actually due to the weather and the flooding the last day was canceled anyway) and I will be able to go back into old the city to photograph without masses of people blocking my shots.
Well ok.... time for lunch. It smells delicious. Ah my senses! Until next time. Ciao.
Oh and here is a montage of photos of Vicenza - one of the most loveliest cities in northern Italy. Enjoy!
I don't even know where to begin and it has only been two days since my last post. That sounds reminiscent of my childhood, "Bless me father for I have sinned. It has been two days since my last confession." Oh if eating wonderful home cooking and drinking in exquisite art and architecture is a sin then I will surely be damned to eternal hell.
I am in awe in Vicenza, even now in the winter when colorful blooms and burgeoning vines have yet to spill over the balcony flower pots. Yes, even when the blustery wind curls around a corner and bites you right in the nose. Why? Because the beauty of the building that the wind just whipped around can steal your breath away. The architectural mix of the city is simply magical. Palladian homes and municipal structures sit side by side Venetian Gothic designs some on the same narrow cobbled streets. And then there is the Olympic Theater... I sat inside it today facing the stage from the highest level of seating and I wept, just wept. SIGH.
But let me pull myself back from being "whelmed" before I float off and into some thought of a magnificent painted ceiling of heaven or "something". Let me get us up to date. I left Verona and came by train to Vicenza on Tuesday afternoon. My host Denis was at the station waiting for me and brought me home to settle in and relax over coffee. Good coffee. Moka brewed coffee. Nice. He offered me his couch for a week or so so that I could see not only Vicenza but also Venice. Venice is a fairly easy train ride from here but not an easy place to find a host. It's better to make the commute.
Wednesday morning Denis treated me to a fantastic guided tour of the old city. He knows so much history and tells the tales with such flare. I only wish that I knew when a story was about to begin so that I could switch over to video and record the lesson. After we stopped for lunch at home and then I was whisked off to the countryside to view more sights including two Palladian villas. This for me was so special because I would never have seen those places without a local host. Hail Chef Denis! Blessed are the COOKSURFERS and guides for they shall inherit a lot of sincere thank you's!
Having that guided tour yesterday morning truly helped me today. I didn't get lost. I walked into town on my own, purchased a museum pass and checked out the open air market. "WHY WHY WHY," I asked myself, "didn't I come with an EMPTY backpack to Italy?" The clothes at the market were fabulous, fashionable and inexpensive. Cashmere, angorra, wraps, sweaters, dresses, scarves, etc. with design and style. I bought a fuzzy WARM hat. In the selection process I dropped my gloves, then my sunglasses, then my glasses, then my gloves again. Each time a different impeccably dressed mature woman touched my arm and said in Italian, "Signora, you dropped your (fill in the blank) ________. The women of Vicenza are gracious, elegant, and attentive and they simply loved my choice of headwear. The hat goes with my new heavy sweater and furry legwarmers. Browsing the markets today I looked as if I should be in a ski resort an not in the city of Vicenza but hey, I am warmer than before and that is good. Cold and I don't agree.
Later in the day today after lunch I visited several museums and the interior of the Teatro Olimpico, the place where I wept. Photos do not do it justice. Photos don't do any of this beauty justice. You must come to Vicenza. You must come and be in 3D. If it is not on your bucket list then put it on and don't wait long to take it out of the bucket. I am a bit tired and am cutting this short and going to sleep. I have been walking a lot (YEY). I need to because Denis is an amazing cook,
And... The Italian word of the day is GUANTO = GLOVE. Perhaps I should get some little clasps and clip them to my sweater sleeves. I would hate to lose them. I need them. And it seems like I will continue to need them. Denis just came out to tell me that this next week is supposed to be the coldest of the entire winter. Laughing he added "You might be here two weeks instead." BRRRRRR
Talk about treasure hunting...WOW! Three banks of food plus desserts. I so wish I had brought my camera to lunch yesterday. I joined my host and a few of his friends at a organic buffet restaurant. Now normally I would just go to be social and to pick at things. Most of those kinds of places from my past serve brown pasta that tastes like cardboard and sauces whose textures and flavors remind me of wallpaper paste but OH NO - NOT IN ITALY. I was in heaven. All of the food was delicious and the meat dishes (I wrote organic not vegan) melted in my mouth. What a delicious and healthy hour and a half of gluttony on my part. I admit it. I went back for thirds.
I have had an interesting few days. As usual my travel experiences are not usual. My host had to work all day on Saturday and then had an out of town conference so he didn't get back until late Sunday afternoon. This turned out great because I could write and sleep and get over my jet lag grumpies all by myself. Sunday was an absolutely gorgeous sunny warm day, a real gift or treasure if we are keeping with the previous theme here. I set my alarm for 9:00 and headed toward the old town, so I thought. Usually it is about a 45 minute walk IF if you are going in the correct direction. I wasn't. I got lost.
About 15 minutes into my adventure I realized I needed help. I had a map with only a few street names on it and I wasn't walking on any of them. I saw a man in his 50's in a suit in front of his house cleaning out his car. He was shaking his car mats. "Scusi, Lei capiche l,inglese?" I am getting good at that question. My inflection is now excellent. "Si, un po." He tried to explain where I was and how to get where I thought I should be and then simply offered to drive me to the dot I had put on the map. Seriously Patt? You are going to get into a car with a stranger? YUP. I sensed no danger at all. He was being helpful. Go with your gut not your programming. That kind five minute ride really helped to get me back on my planned path.
A half hour of walking later I reached the old city. I spent seven hours walking around, taking photos, enjoying the warm sun. It was wonderful. Usually you buy a day pass for entering the museums and churches as it can be expensive to pay for them individually but of course I decided to sight see on the first Sunday of the month when all the sites are discounted to just one euro. Nice.
I got back to my host's apartment about 15 minutes before he did. When he arrived he whisked me straight away to METRO (the Italian version of COSTCO and SAM'S CLUB) and bought me a new phone. Yes, he bought me a new phone. I tried to pay him (it was only 25 euros but still...come on). GRAZIE CHE. How nice of him. "Now I can get in touch with you." Yes, now I am textable and callable. If you want my number email me and I will send it along.
Monday my host had a lot of work and I decided it was time for payback. I decided to do one of the things that I do pretty well which is help out in the marketing of a workshop/event he and his non-profit organization is presenting in July. I wrote some copy, found the quietest corner of the apartment possible, flicked on my voice recorder and did my thing. Then I threw the audio file into an editing program, asked him for photos to match the promo and made a video to be put on youtube. That kept me busy. But I wasn't done. Later I made him sit down and chat with me about the workshop topic of Siberian Shamanism. I edited that up this morning. Once he gets home from work we'll transfer it to his computer and then transfer me to the train station. My work is done here for now in Verona. I have an artist/cook waiting for me in Vicenza. I should be there in this evening. I will arrive hungry.
Oh and what is the Italian word of the day? VESPA. Why? Because I love this photo and I want a ride.
photos: The Arena, The Castle, The Adige River, The City, Lover's Locks by Juliet's Balcony
(Of course I have many more photos but I guess you will have to meet up with me after my trip and share a coffee and an afternoon of stories that don't make it to the public blog. Uploading is taking forever. Google keeps switching me to Italian.)
UPDATE! I have now created a video slide show and uploaded it to youtube so you can see the many images of Verona captured by my camera. But still when I get back let's take a coffee together anyway. :)
The Italian word of the day is SENAPE = MUSTARD (eng), MOSTAZA (sp), SAVORA (arg urban)
The question of the week is LEI CAPISCE L'INGLESE? = DO YOU UNDERSTAND ENGLISH? (eng)
I think this was the smoothest international travel experience that I have ever had. Everything went like clockwork from getting to the Logan bus to arriving in Milan. There was just one small but fun delay at security in Boston. My leather motorcycle coat and my treasured boots went through the x-ray device in a bin and came out minus one boot. As I stood on one foot like a crane a Ben Affleck look-a-like (with a touch of Latino thrown in) searched inside and out of the machine looking for it. It was nowhere. "But it can't just disappear." I said. " It has to be somewhere. It would really stink to travel all day with one shoe."
He seemed quite perplexed until one young girl that I had been chatting with earlier told me that it had fallen out before the bin went through and the boot was on the floor. I called to Ben Guapo and he rescued it. "Here it comes. I am sending it through. I thought I was going crazy." My reply was, "You do know that you look like Ben Affleck don't you?" He smiled wide and said that someone had told him that just yesterday. "Well I hope they got their shoes back too."
Fast forward to Milan... Smooth sailing halted and things got off-plan - but no hurry worry. I purchased a new chip for my cell phone and the clerk and I could not get it working. She even resorted to putting it in her own personal phone and it worked fine. We concluded that it was the phone unit itself. Oh well. While the chip was in her phone I sent a text to my host in Verona who was to pick me up in a few hours notifying him that I had arrived, that I was not using my own phone as I needed a new one, that he could not contact me and that I would be by the exit near customs waiting." I wandered the terminal looking for a phone store but none existed. I sat patiently waiting for my ride. And then... "HEY PATT FIND A PHONE!" My intuition yelled in my ear.
I found a pay phone and called him. Sure enough there was a big glitch. He was tied up at work in meetings and could not drive the two hours to come and get me. Time for Plan B. I went back to the lovely phone clerk who also sells the bus tickets to Milan (and thinks my castellano is fantastic) and purchased one. I took a bus into the city for 40 minutes and then an hour and a half train to Verona thanking myself all the way for being a flexible and seasoned traveler. I wasn't ruffled a bit by any of the changes because I know how and will ask for help. I learned a phrase in Italian before embarking on this journey. It will most likely become my most useful phrase during this three month visit. "Scusi, Lei capisce l'inglese?" Excuse me, do you understand English? This is one of those golden questions because the reply so far has been at the very least "Un po" (a little).
My host met me at the train station and we went for sushi. I was sleep and food deprived and my body had no clue as to what time of day it was. Back at the apartment we chatted. I talked of a fantastic Pinor Noir at my farewell dinner in the USA (Laetittia) and was sent to bed to take a nap. While I snoozed he went out and returned with a bottle of Bardolino and created a lovely dinner. Soon after I crashed. I had the keys and a map for exploring this morning but I missed the morning. I am still a bit jet-lagged and it has been pouring rain. I figure the art waited to show itself to me for a few hundred years, it can wait another day.
Stefano is teaching today so I was left to make my own coffee and raid the frig for lunch fixings. Such a fun treasure hunt deciphering the jar labels. Interestingly enough part of my brain searches in English and another part hunts in Castellano and often it is just my eyes and nose that figures it out. What a wild mix in my brain! I pulled a few treasures out of the frig and while finishing my second cup of coffee I started to write this blog post but.....my host has just arrived home with leftovers from his cooking students. A cooking instructor - in Italy? YA - BE ENVIOUS - BE VERY ENVIOUS. I must go and eat now...
Yesterday was my day to return to Venice without the crowd of people for carnival. I was blessed with sunshine. Once again I have the time now to make and upload a video slideshow before returning to Vicenza and my host Denis. I left my cell phone charger at his place so he gets to see me one more night. I joked with him that I missed his cooking. But it isn't a joke!!!! Tomorrow night I am not sure where I will be. I have couch requests into people in Milan and in Bologna, two different directions entirely, but I have not heard any replies. Today I feel like a real vagabond.
