SICILY - WHEN CAN I COME BACK TO YOU?

I thought I should make a post while still in the south of Italy before my flight back up to Milan.  It is cheaper and takes far less time to fly from Sicily to Milan so I am doing it.  There is so little time left.  How is it that time speeds up at the end of a journey?  And it really speeds up when you are feeling well and in warmer weather.  It seems like more magic happens.   The flow flows better.

I bumped into him in the outdoor market my first day in Palermo.  That's a big pig.

I finally got a concrete answer as to ferries to Sicily then also called the ferry company. It is an overnight boat and as it is not yet season it was not full.  I could kick back and get a bit of shut-eye.  I also had booked a hostel so knew where I was going when I arrived at 7:00 in the morning.  It was a nice vibe hostel with friendly staff and my room had only two beds which is great but unfortunately my delicate nose had a problem.  A cat had decided to claim its territory with its spray.  It wasn't a big problem.  I was out and about most of the time taking photos and buying fresh asparagus and artichokes at the wonderful outdoor market in the city.  After two nights I left and was hosted by a delightful fellow and author of True Crime Novels (#3 on the best seller kindle list), Daniel from Ireland.  He gave me his bed in his loft and took the sofa downstairs for a few nights leaving me on my own during the days to wander the streets shooting photos.  I even got some scooter rides and went to a Sunday asado in the suburbs (Asado is BBQ for those reading non-Argentinos.)

Now many think of Sicily and especially Palermo as gritty and dark and filled with Mafia mayhem but I did not find that to be the case.  I found the people wonderful with so many smiles and the neighborhoods diverse with lots of KEBAB places.  If murder and mayhem is going on it is behind closed doors.  I understand that the M guys don't flaunt.  They prefer a more stealth presence.

After several days in Palermo I hopped on a bus to the other side of the island.  I went to Catania which was a truly great experience.  I had a host that I found through Couchsurfing.  I saw his profile and knew it was to be a great connection.  (Little did I know we have the same friends.)  In fact, he responded in about 15 minutes.  In his response he wrote that he could host me one night in the city but then he couldn't unless I wanted to move over to the beach house. YES YES YES!  I am not one that is interested in clubbing at night.  A beach house with calm and quiet was PERFECT.  I got to join in with his family and the puppy Argo and the guests from England (a documentary filmmaker and a ceramic artist in their 70's) that were renting one of the floors of the family house.  We harvested mussels from the sea, drizzled lemon juice over them from lemons grown on the property, enjoyed local wines and totally enjoyed the marvelous space.  Blessed is the word I am inserting here, I felt so blessed.

After three nights I was brought back to the city of Catania and needed to form another plan knowing my departure from Sicily and Italy in it's whole was imminent   Oh I so didn't want to leave the sunshine and warmth.  I chose to go to a hostel in Syracuse (Siracusa)  for two days to see the ruins.  It has been raining and icky thus allowing me more time to form a plan for my last days.and also to rest a bit.  My plan is now formed.  I take the bus in the morning to the airport in Catania and a flight to Milan then two trains to Seregno.  I have a host there that teaches history and psychology and loves visitors.  It is a city that is well connected for visiting Milan and Lake Como PLUS the weather forecast calls for a few good sunny weather days up there.  The forecast is pouring rain for my last two days in Italy but my memories will still shine like the sun.

This visit went too fast. Life goes too fast.  Carpe Diem!

Tomorrow will be a long day so I will sign this horrid writing off for now.  I just needed to write whether good or bad as the Sicily moment needs to end in the AM.

So tired.... Ciao 4 NOW.

GRIT, SPIT AND PRETTY BLUE SEA

I love Napoli. It is a crazy, noisy, gritty place and it is ALIVE! You have to go to Napoli. I don't know if I can describe it in words in such a short space so a few photos will have to do. There are steep narrow streets of living, curving and damp with very large extended families and with shrines to saints, relatives, pets at every turn. Oh and the laundry hanging everywhere above and at path level and sometimes draped over temporarily deceased motorcycles and scooters. The ride to be resurrected with Neapolitan ingenuity, a few stolen parts, some duct tape and bubblegum. Yes Naples is GRIT and SPIT and their team colors are the same as Argentina.

Easter was a family dinner, then more family then out with friends to have drinks in the piazza. It was like being back in Buenos Aires in the fall with people in scarves and coats feeling damp all crammed around tables and talking for hours. It is not so much about the drinks, it is about being together with friends. The day after Easter was more consumption with friends bringing leftovers and new dishes to sit around the kitchen table and nosh all day. I had not known this but the day after Easter, the Monday is a holiday. The people need an extra day to eat and drink and laugh and yell. What fun!

 

After the long weekend it was time for me to move on and out of the gritty city. I took a little train south to Sorrento. I booked a hostel for five nights (as I write this is my sixh as I asked for one more so that I could coordinate my passage to Sicily). I am actually in the town outside of Sorrento which is lovely and quieter. Sorrento is also lovely but with more things including people.  I highly recommend it.

It was so nice to get a communication my first night from a local couchsurfer to meet for a drink. He texted me and noted to wear something warm. I have that motorcycle coat with me for a reason (insert happy face). Giuseppe arrived with his vintage 1972 Vespa to bring me on a little night tour. I loved it. Not only does he know all about the area he is also a very talented travel photographer. I could take some tips from him. I am impressed. When I get a link to a web site I can post it. Giuseppe is also setting up a new business for people that want to see the famous Amalfi Coast on the back of a vintage Vespa. Well I think that would be one of the best ways to do it, absolutely, but not by renting one of your own. Please go with Giuseppe! It is off season now but in a month the road will be crowded and full of people that are driving motos and scooters, and cars without knowing the traffic patterns. Not to mention locals in trucks and buses. You need a knowledgeable driver.  Unfortunately Giuseppe's work schedule and my Patt is a Tourist schedule didn't collide for a full day on the coast and as usual I made my way. My first full day I took the boat to the island of Capri and back. It was beautiful but I preferred my next day, The Famous Amalfi Coast and Another Adventure with Patt. (Is that being redundant?)

I purchased a full day hop on hop off bus ticket and nabbed a window seat on the sea side. I put my headphones on and listened to Andrea Bocelli's Viaggio Italiano as we rode around treacherous curves with stunning water and jagged rocks below. I started to cry! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. What a beautiful experience. Instead of hopping off in Positano I stayed on until Amalfi where I found out that having the full day ticket (less than 10 USD) entitled you to take one of those open air tourist buses with an audio narration of the history all the way up to Ravello. BONUS - start to cry again... NOOOO. Jump up and down. An American friend I know from living in Uruguay a few years ago had told me to go to the Villa Chimbrone when I was up there and I am so glad that I did. What a wonderful view, what a wonderful afternoon.

Back in Amalfi I wandered around taking photos and rlaxed in the sun and when I was hungry and thirsty I hopped on the bus to Positano. I had decided that I just wanted to sit at a cafe, overlook the sea and have a glass of wine and an antipasto. That would be my Positano ending to a perfect day. Too bad I didn't have anyone to share the experience. Enter Fred...

I had a spare seat next to me on the bus. I thought it odd that no one was taking it but then an American asked if it was free. He was traveling alone. We had such fun talking. The one liner vibe was on for both of us so I said, “Do you have one of those all day bus tickets? Why don't you get off in Positano and join me for a drink?” He did. We walked around looking for a place and asked a police officer where to overlook the sea. "Go up" she said. We looked into the open entrance to a hotel and decided that was the spot. It turned out to be the most expensive hotel in Positano. It really was gorgeous. Fred will never forget me, especially after he gets his credit card statement. I stopped at the front desk to get a brochure. $$$$$ Yesterday I returned to Positano just to see the beach area and learned the history of the hotel. I was sitting on a wall and was approached by an elderly Italian with a Scottish accent, Salvatore. He has houses in both Positano where we was raised and Scotland. He comes down to the beach to chat a lot since his wife passed away. He is a wealth of information and history. I had asked for another angel to show up in Positano. I smiled to myself.  

Then came the response to my next request to the heavens. After Salvatore shared conversation I "asked" for some eating and drinking company. That didn't look like it was going to happen and I felt like hiking out away from the shops and beach anyway. I hiked up and up knowing that I would eventually find the cross in the road and the bus stop coming down into Positano from Sorrento. At the curve there was a small cafe and out in front was a couple from Georgia, Paul and Becky. They were drinking white wine and watching the people go by and having fun. I double checked in the bar if I was in the right spot for the bus and chatted with them. When my bus came it was FULL from the stops before.  It would not stop to get more passengers. I would have to wait another half hour for the next one and hope that one wasn't full too. Paul and Becky invited me to stay at their villa as they had an extra room and to join them for a pasta dinner. I started laughing so hard.  My drinking and eating buddies - haaa. I was so tempted to say yes but they were half in the pot already and it would take a bit for me to catch up, also I needed to get back and extend my hostel a night and start figuring out passage to Sicily. The bus came going in the other direction and the traffic officer yelled to me GET ON! THEN GET OFF THE NEXT STOP. YOU HAVE BETTER CHANCES. Oh she was so right!

Well this is getting be a book and it is just a blog post. Things are speeding up now. I have 20 days left and I am in warmer weather. The cold slows me down. My vibe is always so much better when I am not all condensed and bundled. Thank God for the change of season. What next adventure awaits along Patt's path?  Who knows?  I cannot get a consistent answer of where I need to catch the ferry back in Naples to Palermo, Sicily tomorrow night backpack in tow.  Yes - life is an adventure.

Stay tuned... 

Ciao 4 NOW.  I have to find a hostel online to book.  My connection for a host in Palermo just fell through but all is not said and done.  One must stay flexible....

And the ITALIAN WORD OF THE DAY is BICCHIERE = GLASS because after I finish proofreading and correcting all the typing errors (it is not easy writing on a netbook) I am going to need one or two of VINO ROSSO!